Ongerept Ibiza

Een reis door de tijd : ongerept en onbekend Ibiza

De rotsformatie die voor Es Vedra in zee ligt heeft de vorm van een draak. Met een beetje fantasie zie je vooraan de reusachtige kop met daarachter de rugwervels en helemaal aan de andere kant midden in de zee steekt nog een stukje staart uit boven de golven. Achter deze draak rijst Vedra 386 meter uit de zee en vanaf de zijkant lijkt het geheel op een Sphinx. Naar verluidt de derde Magnetische plek op aarde, na de Bermuda driehoek en Medina.
Es Vedra op Ibiza trekt elke dag, zomer en winter, toeristen aan die zich laven aan haar magnetische puls, een moment van stilte en bezinning zoeken of gewoon aangetrokken worden tot het vaak sublieme schouwspel van de dagelijkse zonsondergang die goed vanaf het platform op de kliffen te zien is. Ik zie dit schouwspel elke dag want ik woon sinds 4 jaar recht tegenover de waarheid, of Es Verdad, de Spaanse verbastering van Es Vedra ! Ik leid veel groepen en families rondom de kliffen, naar de in zee gezonken stad van Atlantis om de hoek zoals de legende verteld, en over het hele eiland naar de mooiste plekjes die de toeristen vaak niet zien. Ik ben 4 jaar geleden bij een bezoek van een week verliefd geworden op dit magische eiland en ontdek het sinds die week in september stapvoets, want wandelen is de beste manier om Ibiza echt goed te leren kennen, haar schoonheid te zien en te voelen, en om haar ritme te beleven. Het landschap met haar witte fincas, piratenwachttorens, waterbronnen en terrassen verteld ook het verhaal van geschiedenis van Ibiza en geloof me, deze geschiedenis van ‘la Isla Blanca’ is net zo rijk als haar natuurpracht.

Ik neem je graag mee op drie van mijn favoriete wandelingen, langs de zoutvelden van Salinas die de geschiedenis vertellen van het “Witte Goud ‘ van het eiland, naar de Geheime stad die de Moren bouwden op de onherbergzame kliffen van Cala Dálbarca en we komen weer terug bij de Magische Rots die we als adelaars vanaf het hoogste uitzichtpunt kunnen bewonderen en die zonder pauze haar hoge vibratie laat resoneren met de zon, zee en sterren.
2014-12-19-0083

Salinas bij Zonsondergang

De vroegere levensader van Ibiza is het zout. Naast het vliegveld dat in 1958 is aangelegd trekken de vlakke zoutpannen van het Parque Natural de las Salinas het oog van de wandeltoerist. De vlakke pannen met lichtroze water zijn afgescheiden door dijkjes en verhogingen. De eerste veroveraars van Ibiza, de Phoeniciers, waren handelsmensen en zij ontdekten dat ingezouten voedsel langer meegaat. Ibiza werd hierdoor een belangrijk opslagpunt in de handelsroute over de Middellandse Zee die vanaf Libië en later Tunesië via Italië en Zuid Spanje en uiteindelijk Marokko op de terugweg ging. Het Ibiza zout was het beste van het Middellandse Zee gebied omdat het zout niet werd aangetast door de ondergrond van klei.
De hoofdweg slingert door de zoutpannen richting het bekende strand van Salinas waar in de zomer mensen bijkomen van het feestgedruis en waar ook de jetset af en toe een strandbedje huurt voor een paar honderd euro. Als in oktober de rust weer neerdaalt over Ibiza strijken overwinteraars neer op Salinas, honderden verschillende soorten vogels voornamelijk uit Afrika, met als meest markante gast de flamingo.
Het is heerlijk wandelen langs de zoutpannen en er zijn in dit gebied diverse wandelingen mogelijk variërend van vlakke familie wandelingen tot de meest uitdagende van het eiland, over 5 flinke heuvels die de Noordkant van het park vormen en beginnen bij Sa Canal, de plek waar het zout vanaf begin 19e eeuw werd afgeleverd om verscheept te worden. Voor die tijd moesten de zoutwerkers naar het verder gelegen Playa den Bossa lopen met 50 kg zout op hun hoofd. Achter het pittoreske kerkje van St. Fransesc midden in Salinas staat een beeld van die zoutwerker, en het is de start van een mooie wandeling met veel variatie langs de mooiste stukken van het park.

fb-backgroundEen standbeeld ter ere van de zoutdrager ( Cargador )

Via de Carer de Es Cargador (het pad van de drager), loopt het zandpad naar de kust, de uiterste rechterkant van het uitgestrekte Playa den Bossa. Hier lagen de boten te wachten op het zout. Er konden geen ezels of paarden gebruikt worden omdat het zout de hoeven aantast, vandaar het zware werk voor de arbeiders midden in de hete zomers en de oogst in september.  Toch was dit een baan voor uitverkorenen, het werken op de zoutvelden was eeuwenlang na 1500 het enige werk dat er was in Ibiza als je geen boer of visser was.
2014-12-14-9929Bij de kust aangekomen staat rechts op een heuvel de Torre de Sal Rosa, of Torre de Es Cargador, een piratenwacht toren. Deze toren is geheel gerenoveerd en in de zomer geopend als museum. Vanaf het dak heb je een schitterend uitzicht over het uitgaansstrand Playa den Bossa, en verderop verheft de hoge stad, of D’Alt Villa zich beschermd door de massieve stadswal. De piratentorens op het eiland en de stadswal zijn ontworpen door de Italiaanse Architect  Calvi, in de 16e eeuw. Dit ontwerp diende als voorbeeld voor torens die langs de gehele Mediterrane zijn gebouwd en die uiteindelijk zelfs de Zuid Engelse en Ierse kusten moesten beschermen. Als de piraten in zicht kwamen werd de bevolking gewaarschuwd met een luide kreet, de Uc, werden vuren gestookt op de torens en luidden de kerken hun klokken. Door dit systeem was het hele eiland binnen een uur gewaarschuwd, en konden boeren en vissers vluchten naar nabijgelegen grotten, de torens en binnen de ommuurde stad.
Enkele van die grotten vindt je als je vanaf de toren op Playa den Bossa rechtsaf loopt, eerst langs enkele huizen tot aan de huisjes voor de vissersboten (El Barracas). Vanaf hier leidt een redelijk stijl bergpad je omhoog naar de top van de eerste heuvel met een nog mooier uitzicht op de baai en de toren. Aan de andere kant zijn er aan de kust enkele grotten te vinden die goed met een kano te exploreren zijn. Het pad slingert over enkele heuvels en komt uiteindelijk uit bij het meest Zuidelijke kleine strandje van Ibiza, een waar paradijsje waar je zelfs in de drukke zomer niet gestoord zal worden. Dan volgt nog een schitterend uitzicht vanaf de laatste heuveltop. Vanaf hier is Formentera heel goed te zien op een heldere dag, met drie kleine eilandjes ervoor. Het grootste eiland werd vroeger veel gebruikt door Varkenssmokkelaars, en heet daarom  Illa de Porc. Het zwarte Varken van Formentera was erg in trek op Ibiza omdat er uitbetaald werd in kilogram en niet per stuk. De smokkel was een riskante business want als je gepakt werd kon je opgehangen worden als afschrikwekkend voorbeeld op het kleinste eilandje ernaast, Illa des Penjats. Vanaf het uitzichtpunt is ook goed de uiterste noordpunt van het park te zien, de piratentoren van Salinas aan het einde van het langgerekte strand van Untitled-1Salinas., de Torre de ses Portes.  Via Es Cavallet lopen we langs de zoutpannen terug naar st. Fransesc en is het genieten van de vaak spectaculaire zonsondergang. We passeren een dorpje met kerk dat speciaal voor de zoutwerkers gemaakt is rond 1800. Ook is hier duidelijk het hydraulische systeem te zien met een waterrad dat door de moren is geïntroduceerd op Ibiza. Vanaf drie punten werd zeewater de zoutpannen ingesluisd gebruik makend van het waterrad, hoogteverschillen en de kanalen. Een deel van de oogst van zo’n 60.000 ton wit zout ligt midden in de zoutvelden als een besneeuwde heuvel.

Niet ver van Salinas ligt de ommuurde stad die door Phoeniciers, Carthagenen, Romeinen, Visigoten, Vikingen, Moren en Christenen gewonnen en vaak ook weer verloren is. In 1228 stuurde de Koning van Aragon en Italiaanse Christelijke Nobelen uit Pisa een vloot van 500 schepen met 20.000 man naar het eiland om een einde te maken aan de Arabisch-Moorse Hegenomie van 333 jaar op Ibiza. Op het Spaanse vasteland was het Moorse rijk door interne machtsstrijd al uit elkaar gevallen en viel alleen nog Denya onder het Kalifaat.
De Moren waren een zegen geweest voor Ibiza na de donkere tijden met een willekeur aan brute en gewelddadige bezetters zoals de Vandalen, Vikingen en Noormannen. De Moren kwamen met een intelligent hydraulisch systeem met water en windmolens voor de vele terrassen dat de landbouw en zoutwinning voorgoed verbeterde. Ook namen zij de Amandelboom, Citrusboom, en Palmboom mee. Yabisa Medina, zoals de Moren de stad noemden viel na 28 dagen. Meteen verslapte de aandacht voor Ibiza bij de nieuwe Christelijke Nobelen uit Catalonië die Ibiza in 4 streken of Cuatrons verdeelden, vanwege een volgende 8 maanden durende strijd om Mallorca. Ibiza werd eigenlijk leeggeplunderd achtergelaten. Deze situatie maakte het voor de overgebleven Moren mogelijk een nieuwe geheime nederzetting te bouwen op de ruigste kliffen van Ibiza, die zij Cala Dalbarca noemden, de rots die water bevat in het Arabisch. Aan de voet van deze kliffen waren  bronnen ontdekt met zoet water en er werd zelfs een lage verdedigingswal gebouwd waar de wacht gehouden werd. Dit deel van Ibiza werd waarschijnlijk ook gekozen omdat het moeilijker te bereiken was voor de piraten en vanwege het gebrek aan boeren. Het dichtstbijzijnde dorpje tegenwoordig is Sant Mateu, bekend van de wijnvelden in de vallei met enkele bodega’s die eigen Ibicenco wijn produceren.

DalbarqueUitzicht vanaf de verloren stad

De geheime stad is vanaf St. Mateu te bereiken langs een landelijk slingerend bospad dat aan de Westkant over de hoge klif loopt. Dan volgt een dal maar als je de moeite neemt langs een klein paadje door struiken en laag groeiende pijnbomen en naaldbomen naar de kust te lopen kom je uit op een eerste platform met een Koninklijk uitzicht. In de verte rijst stijl de enorme klif uit de zee die de Moren kozen voor hun hide away. Het pad volgt verder door een dal en dan klim je omhoog naar de overblijfselen van de nederzetting. Er zijn nog delen over van de oude stenen wal, en boven op de klif zijn structuren van vierkante stenen huizen te zien. Deze top van de klif bestaat uit enorm grote ronde stenen, soms met een diameter van meer dan 10 meter. Op deze bolvormige stenen kon natuurlijk niet gebouwd worden, maar meer aan de kust en tussen de stenen zijn de restanten van de huisjes te vinden. Het uitzicht is fenomenaal en als je dit gebied verkend begin je te begrijpen waarom de Moren hierheen vluchtten. Het is een van de hoogste kliffen in de omgeving, met een geïsoleerde ligging, onmogelijk te bereiken vanaf de zee. Vanwege de hoogte zijn alle vijanden die een poging wagen de stad te benaderen van verre al te zien. De vraag is eigenlijk of deze stad überhaupt ooit ontdekt is door de Christenen, en op welk moment de stad verlaten is. Was dit door een verloren strijd, of nam de hoop in die lange tijd af op een Moorse herovering van heel Ibiza ?

In de uiterste Zuid West hoek van het eiland ligt de indrukwekkende rotsformatie Es Vedra en Es Vedranell. Er gaat een onbeschrijfelijke aantrekkingskracht en schoonheid uit van Es Vedra. Telkens als ik de hoek om rij en de top boven de heuvels zie uitsteken stokt mijn adem even. De derde magnetische plek op aarde. Ik woon er nu drie jaar recht tegenover en heb talloze adembenemende zonsondergangen gezien, dolfijnen die spelen tussen de kliffen en Es Vedra, stormen met metershoge golven en de zee die altijd weer rustig wordt, een blauwe spiegel waarin de wolken plekken roze, lichtblauw en grijs spiegelen door het weerkaatsende zonlicht
Het is een groot geschenk om in dit natuurpark te wonen, te genieten van de stilte, de zuivere lucht en de elementen elke dag te voelen. Het heeft mij ertoe gebracht om hier retraites te organiseren, om deze schoonheid te delen.
Op astrologische keerpunten zoals de zonnewende, volle maan of 21-12-2012 verzamelen grote groepen mensen zich op het uitkijkplatform en voeren ceremonies uit. Op andere dagen zijn er bruiloften in het wit, soms filmopnamen en meestal gewoon de toeristen die de zonsondergang komen bekijken.
In de winter en lente wandel ik graag vanaf dit platform naar het strand van Cala D’hort wat in de dieper gelegen Westelijke baai ligt. Dit strand biedt een spectaculaire uitzicht op Es Vedra en is in de zomer dan ook dagelijks vol. In de maanden voor die drukke zomer is er vaak niemand te bekennen en volg ik het klif pad helemaal naar beneden. Ondanks de harde grond hier, afgewisseld met zachte zandsteen zijn er de karakteristieke muurtjes en terrassen te vinden die op vroegere bebouwing wijzen. Zelfs hier hebben boeren het land gecultiveerd en amandelbomen en vijgenbomen geplant. Het pad loopt langs een klein dal dat afloopt naar de kliffen en dat verdeeld is in steeds kleiner wordende terrassen. Op een hoger gelegen terras staat een eenzame vijgenboom, de oude grijze takken kronkelen door elkaar en maken hun gebed naar de hemel. De boeren knipten vaak de eerste takken van de boom af om de boom horizontaal te laten groeien. De grotere takken werden ondersteund met stokken en de vijgenbomen konden op deze wijze een diameter van wel 30 meter bereiken.
Het pad loopt verder over grotere terrassen die begrenst worden door een rij vakantie villa’s die alleen in de zomer enkele weken worden bewoond. Dan buigt het pad weer af naar de klif en door de bijna gifgroene pijnbomen ontsluit zich het doorzichtige heldere lichtblauwe water. De lichtere plekken geel zand zijn makkelijk te zien tussen de donkere rotsen op de zeebodem. Links steekt Es Vedra statig uit het water en rechts is al het strand te zien. Een brede zoom zand uitlopend in een steile klif met onderaan de karakteristieke Baraccas. Aan het einde waar de klif om de hoek verdwijnt is een restaurant op de rosten gebouwd, Es Boldado.  Het loont zeer de moeite over het strand te lopen helemaal langs de boothuisjes tot aan dit einde waar stenen trappen bijna vanuit de zee omhooglopen naar de ingang van het restaurant. Vanaf de trappen is de baai in haar totaliteit te bewonderen met als contrast de groene heuvels die oprijzen achter het strand en de twee restaurants die direct aan het strand liggen. Vanaf dit punt kan ik zelfs helemaal bovenaan op de klif rechts bijna mijn huis zien liggen. Teruglopend kan ik vaak niet de verleiding weerstaan om een duik in het heldere water te nemen.
CalaDhortHet strand van Cala Dhort in de winter

Voor het absoluut meest spectaculaire uitzicht op Es Vedra, Atlantis en Cala D’hort en zelfs de baaien van Cala Carbo tot aan Cala Compte benaderen we de kliffen vanaf de andere kant, vanaf het kleine dorpje Es Cubells. De kerk van Es Cubells is bijna aan de rand van de klif gebouwd en de witte kalk schittert in de winterzon. Vanaf hier is de weg goed te zien die zich als een slang over de hoge kliffen slingert met onderaan op het minder steile gedeelte achter pijnbomen en muren verscholen enkele van de duurste Villa’s op het eiland. Het contrast van dit kapitaal met de slechte staat van de smalle toegangsweg met scheuren en gaten is dan ook groot, maar dit past op een prettige manier bij Ibiza. Soms lijkt het alsof het gebrek aan luxe qua infrastructuur het extravagante camoufleert. Het helderblauwe water, de witte villa’s die her den der zichtbaar zijn en de slingerende weg doen sterk aan een miniatuurversie van de Cote D’ázur denken. Het geheel heeft dezelfde nonchalant rijke uitstraling in de gratis luxe van het zachte mediterrane licht.

Vanaf een van de laatste Villa’s langs de kliffen bij Es Cubells volgen we een smal klifpaadje in een bocht over de rotsachtige heuvel die stijl vanaf het pad verder omhoog rijst. Eerst stijgt het pad licht en en worden we geflankeerd door de karakteristieke pijnbomen, rozemarijnplanten, peperplanten en andere groene struiken. Als het pad weer ligt daalt zijn we bijna om de hoek en dan gebeurt het. Opeens ontsluit zich een paradijselijke baai met helderblauw water dat ergens in het midden in tweeën wordt gesneden door een steiger die bijna op het water lijkt te zweven. Een klein zandstrand vangt de heldere zee op en loopt over in een rij Barraccas. Wat opvalt is dat her en der voor deze huisjes spullen van de vissers verspreid liggen. Stapels netten, emmers en haken duiden op weinig bezoek op dit geïsoleerde paradijsje. De huisjes worden afgewisseld met kleinere vissersbootjes die op de kant zijn getrokken en er al een eeuwigheid lijken te liggen. Door de hitte zitten er scheuren in het hout en zijn er van de verf alleen nog wat schilfers over.
Achter de huisjes werpt de steile heuvel haar schaduw vooruit. Het kleine paadje loopt onder grote pijnbomen omhoog, eerst nog geleidelijk maar later steiler als een slang kronkelend naar de zon die zich al in de namiddag al verschuild achter de rotsen in de hoogte. Als we bijna boven gekomen nog een laatste blik naar beneden werpen zien we alleen een klein strookje geel strand en het Goddelijk blauwe water met daarin donkere plekken, de Posidonia die op de bodem groeit en het zeewater zuivert.
Dan volgt onze weg verder omhoog. Eerst nog langs een luxe Villa van een Franse kunstenares waar aan de infinity pool ooit de Rolling Stones en Mike Oldfield pootje badend zich verwonderde over de ongereptheid van deze plek. We volgen de enige toegangsweg tot deze Villa, een breed slingerend zandpad verder omhoog totdat we weer naar beneden geleid worden. Dan, op het moment dat ons rechts een bijzonder uitzicht op Salinas en zelfs Ibiza ons wordt gegund slaan we een klein rotspaadje in dat achter een elektriciteitsmast begint.
Dit pad leid ons eerst nog door een dichtbegroeide Vallei en dan stijgt het pad naar de mooiste uitzichtpunten van het eiland. Achter ons zakt de vallei in de vergetelheid en al bijna openbaren nieuwe werelden zich voor ons. Als het paadje in de buurt van de steile klifrand komt stopt opeens ons hart bij het zien van het volgende bijna onbeschrijfelijke uitzicht:
vedraNiet alleen ligt in de diepte duidelijk zichtbaar het legendarische Atlantis, verderop in zee verheft zich op majesteitelijke wijze de bekendste Rots van Ibiza : Es Vedra. Het lijkt erop dat we zelfs hoger zijn geklommen dan de 386 meter hoge Koninklijke Vedra, en dit klopt ook. En dan zien we opeens op de kliffen die stijl vanaf Atlantis omhoog lopen de piraten wacht toren, de Torre de Savinar. Meestal is dit het eindpunt voor toeristen qua uitzicht op Es Vedra, en wij zijn letterlijk een niveau hoger gekomen en ons zicht omvat al dit schoons. Maar hier houdt het nog niet op. Ook rechts ontvouwt zich een heerlijk panorama met in de verte het eiland voor Cala Compte, La Conegero, maar daarvoor de baaien van Cala Dd’Hort en Cala Garbo.
Je voelt je letterlijk hier on top of the world, als adelaars in het nest.  Een geweldige plek voor een uitgebreide lunch met Cava, maar niet teveel want we moeten nog omlaag. Deze afdaling  gaat via het grote zandpad bij de elektriciteitsmast verder omlaag en via enkele kleine wandelpaadjes zijn we weer terug bij het witte kerkje en de landelijke rust van Es Cubells. Maar met op ons warm gekleurde gezicht een voldane glimlach en in onze herinnering het hemelse panorama. Tijd voor een Canya !

© Lucien Lecarme , januari 2015

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